Restaurant Review – Page 29

Delicious Slices at Mac’s Pizza

Published on August 10, 2024 by Michael NusairLeave a comment

Location: 759 Dovercourt Road, Toronto
Website: https://www.macspizza.ca/

It’s getting easier and easier to find great slices of pizza in the city — in and around the core, at least. Once you get further into the outskirts and the suburbs, good slice shops get few and far between (at least in the west end — does great pizza exist in Etobicoke or Mississauga? If it does, I haven’t found it!).

I’ve tried a couple of slices at Mac’s. The first was the Lemonhead: “lemon pepper cream, black peper, zest, wedge.”

Who knew that lemon could be so delicious on a pizza? I certainly wouldn’t have guessed, but the zippy lemon does a great job of balancing out the rich slice.

I also sampled the angry pep, which is more traditional: “pep, jalapeno, hot honey, basil.” It’s quite tasty. The pepperoni / hot honey combo seems to be getting more and more ubiquitous, and justifiably so; it’s a tasty combo. And the mild kick you get from the jalapenos complements the slice quite well.

The pizza itself is definitely above average, with a nice balance between the lightly crispy exterior and the chewy interior. It’s quite good.

Tasty Grilled Burgers at Elijah’s Automatic

Published on August 7, 2024 by Michael NusairLeave a comment

Location: 821 The Queensway, Etobicoke
Website: https://elijahsautomatic.com/

I was actually quite excited to try Elijah’s Automatic, the newest venture from Shant Mardirosian of Burger’s Priest fame. It’s been a while, but when Burger’s Priest first opened and had just the one location on the east end, it was something special. Their burgers were upsettingly good. Basically perfect. That’s not to mention the fact that they pretty much single-handedly ushered in the smashed burger trend that swept through the GTA over the last decade or so.

A new burger place from the brains behind that operation? Yeah, that’s exciting.

Smartly, Elijah’s Automatic isn’t making the griddled burgers you can get at roughly a billion other burger joints in the city; they’re grilling them. It’s kinda funny that, pre-Burger’s Priest, it was hard to find a non-fast-food burger that wasn’t grilled. Now it seems like a delightful change of pace.

I ordered the Automatic with Cheese (“Two flame broiled beef patties with cheddar cheese, pickle, charred onion, mustard and ketchup”) and the beef fat fries.

It’s a solid burger. And when they say it’s grilled, it’s grilled. The smoky, charred flavour is actually a bit overwhelming. I think this style of burger might be better suited to one big patty rather than two smaller ones, which would provide a better balance between the flavour of the beef and the flavour from the grill.

It’s a shame; this article says they’re using dry-aged ribeye fat to give the burgers more flavour, but you’d never know. All you can taste is the grill.

That’s not an unsatisfying flavour, of course. I enjoyed it. My burger blog is basically defunct at this point, but if I were reviewing this there, I’d give it a solid three out of four. It’s slightly on the dry side and probably a bit too finely ground, but it’s quite pleasant. It’s more along the lines of a fast food burger on a good day than something you should go out of your way for, but it’s a tasty burger.

As for the fries, they’re battered, which isn’t my favourite style of fry, but for what they are, they’re very good.

Delicious Pizza (and Coconut Cream Pie) at The Fourth Man in the Fire

Published on August 5, 2024 by Michael NusairLeave a comment

Location: 832 Dundas Street West, Toronto
Website: https://thefourthmaninthefirepizzeria.com/

The last time I tried the Fourth Man in the Fire, I thought it was very good, but probably just short of greatness. I may have been wrong about that; I just had another slice, and I don’t think there was anything holding it back from greatness. It’s there.

I had a slice of the margherita, and it was seriously good. It’s cheesier than you might expect, but the balance of rich cheese and zippy sauce was just right. They also chop the basil and sprinkle it all over the slice instead of using whole leaves, and I actually think that’s the way to go. You get the flavour of the basil throughout, instead of just in a few mouthfuls.

On my last visit I found the crust to be slightly lacking in substance, but that wasn’t an issue this time. It’s got a good chew to it, a nice flavour, it’s perfectly charred, and it has a great balance of crispy interior and fluffy interior. The pizza is quite generously topped, but the crust has a enough substance to it to hold up perfectly.

I had to try the coconut cream pie after reading this article, and yeah, it’s delicious, too. It’s super rich and creamy, and has a really nice toasted coconut flavour. It’s one of the better slices of coconut cream pie I’ve had in quite a while, though it’s also extremely pricey at 13 bucks. They say it’s meant to be shared, and it is indeed very heavy, but it’s also a pretty standard size for slice of pie. It’s very, very delicious, so it’s hard to complain too much, but yowza that’s a lot for a slice of pie.

French Onion Grilled Cheese at Phancy’s Bodega

Published on August 4, 2024 by Michael NusairLeave a comment

Location: 2473 Dundas Street West, Toronto
Website: https://www.phancybodega.com/

French onion soup? Yeah, that’s delicious. Grilled cheese? Obviously great. So if you’re going to cram the two together, clearly I need to try that.

They have a bunch of tasty looking hoagies and grilled cheese sandwiches at Phancy’s (I’ve heard the Buffalo chicken is particularly good), but once I saw the French onion soup sandwich, it had to happen.

The French onion grilled cheese, per Phancy’s menu: “Truffle french onion mayo, provolone, caramelized french onions on butter toasted pullman loaf.”

It’s a quality sandwich. How could it not be? It’s got a whole bunch of caramelized onions and gooey cheese, so of course it tastes good.

The fluffy, slightly sweet brioche-like bread isn’t a perfect match for the sandwich, however. It has a hard time holding together under the deluge of greasy toppings, and its sweetness is probably overkill.

Something like sourdough would bring bit more heft, not to mention a zingy counterpoint to the very sweet caramelized onions (the sandwich is really crying out for something acidic to cut through the extreme richness, though I suppose that would muddle the French onion soup theme).

Still, it’s a very tasty sandwich, though I should note that this was maybe the greasiest, heaviest grilled cheese sandwich I’ve ever eaten. It was like taking a wrecking ball to my guts.

Don’t make any big plans after eating this thing, is what I’m saying.

Tasty Pork Bone Soup at Sunrise House

Published on August 1, 2024 by Michael NusairLeave a comment

Location: 661 Bloor Street West, Toronto
Website: http://www.sunrisehousetoronto.com/

No, Sunrise House isn’t the breakfast joint you might assume based on the name — it’s actually a Korean restaurant with a delightfully affordable menu. It’s a bit of a hole-in-the-wall, but in all the best ways.

Their specialty seems to be their gamjatang, or pork bone soup (the menu refers to it as “famous,” and most of the people around me were ordering it). It costs 12 bucks for an absolutely massive portion, not to mention the requisite Korean sides, so if nothing else, it’s a great deal (and you can save even more by paying cash and availing yourself of their five percent cash discount).

It also tastes great, however, with a nice zippy flavour and a pronounced spicy kick. That’s not to mention the bones, which are crammed with a generous amount of ultra-tender meat (it’s hard to see them with that impressive pile of flavourful bean shoots on top, but they’re there and they’re quite generous).

The sides, too, are all quite tasty. Nothing here is going to blow your mind or make you reconsider what this dish can be — it’s just a really solid version of a classic dish, served for a great price. It’s hard to go wrong there.