A Delicious (and Gigantic) Meal at Brown Donkatsu

Brown Donkatsu
Location
: 487 Bloor Street West, Toronto
Website: https://browndonkatsu.ca/

Brown Donkatsu serves the Korean version of tonkatsu, which is quite similar, but with a sweeter sauce.

Before checking this place out, I had read a few references to how big the portions are, so I was expecting a hefty meal.  I was unprepared.

Brown Donkatsu

Wow, it’s a lot of food.  I got the combo katsu, which comes with half brown katsu sauce, and half cream sauce.  You can choose from chicken or pork; I went with pork.

Every order comes with two fried cutlets, and I’m not sure if you can get a sense of the scale from the photo, but they’re surprisingly massive.  One of these would be enough for any reasonable person.  Two is… a lot.

Brown Donkatsu

I think the reasonable thing to do is to eat one and take the other to go.  The problem here is that they’re very, very good.  So once I started eating, I couldn’t stop.  The crispy exterior is substantial enough to give you a very hearty crunch, but light enough that it doesn’t overwhelm the pork.  And the pork is nice and tender.  It’s seriously tasty.

I finished it, but I didn’t feel good about it, that’s for sure.  It’s the type of meal where you feel like you have to go lie down to recover.

Brown Donkatsu

I will say that I’ll probably just stick with the brown sauce if I ever find myself back here.  It complements the meaty pork quite well, with a nice sweetness that helps round things out (it’s also quite different from the curry or tonkatsu sauce that you might expect).  The ultra-rich cream sauce, on the other hand, is a bit one-note heavy.  I certainly didn’t dislike eating it, but a little of it goes a long way.  I would have liked about 90% brown sauce, and 10% cream sauce for a little bit of extra richness.

As for the other stuff on the plate, the sweet, creamy dressing on the cabbage is nice, and the corn and rice are corn and rice.

An Amazing Fried Chicken Sandwich at DownLow Chicken

DownLow Chicken
Location
: 538 Manning Avenue, Toronto
Website: https://www.dlchicken.com/

DownLow Chicken is a Vancouver fried chicken chain (well, maybe “chain” is overstating it — they have three locations there, and now, one here) that specializes in Nashville hot chicken.

They’ve only been open in Toronto for a few months, but just based on this visit?  Strong contender for the best fried chicken sandwich in the city.  Absolutely stellar.

DownLow Chicken

They have a variety of tenders and chicken pieces on the menu, but the specialty seems to be the sandwiches.  I went with the OG: “Nashville Dusted Chicken, Pickled onions, Cole slaw, Pickles, DL Sauce.”

You can pick from seven spice levels; I went with hot, which is right in the middle.  They also asked if I wanted dark meat or white, which I don’t think I’ve ever been asked when ordering a fried chicken sandwich.  I went with dark.

DownLow Chicken

Wow, it’s good.  It actually reminds me a lot of how Chica’s Chicken was a few years ago, before the quality went downhill.

Every element here is on point: it’s got a perfect level of exterior crunch, the meat is super juicy, it’s perfectly seasoned, the ultra-fluffy and slightly sweet bun has just enough heft to stand up to the substantial sandwich, and the toppings are all great.

DownLow Chicken

There’s a great balance between the zippy slaw, the sweet pickles, and the creamy sauce.  And the Nashville spices are right where you want them to be (though “hot” is a bit mild for me — it’s still got a decent amount of heat, but I’ll probably go one or two notches higher next time).

And I can’t say enough about how perfect the chicken itself is — it’s just so tender, juicy, and satisfying.

DownLow Chicken

I also got an order of the slaw, and it has a nice vinegary bite and is pleasant enough, but it’s not on the level of the chicken.  That sandwich, though.

Tasty Fried Chicken Sandwiches at Mad Bird Hot Chicken

Mad Bird Hot Chicken
Location
: 154 Queen Street South, Mississauga
Website: https://www.instagram.com/madbird.ca/

There’s certainly no shortage of solid fried chicken sandwiches in Toronto, but Mississauga?  That’s a bit more rare.  So I was excited to check out Mad Bird Hot Chicken in Streetsville.

Mad Bird Hot Chicken

They have a variety of sandwiches, wings, and “bird bites” (chicken strips, basically).  I went with the Nashville Napalm Sando: “This sando brings serious heat and Southern swagger. Our 48-hour marinated crispy chicken thigh gets baptized in fiery Nashville chili-oil, then stacked with cool Bird’s ranch, crunchy southern slaw, and tangy pickles — all hugged by a buttery brioche bun.”

Mad Bird Hot Chicken

You can pick your spice level from one to five; the guy behind the counter recommended three, so that’s what I went with.

Mad Bird Hot Chicken

It’s a tasty sandwich.  Nothing about it blew my mind, but it’s nice and crunchy, the chicken is tender, and the slaw and the pickles give it a nice zippiness that cuts through the richness.  I’d probably bump up the spice level to four next time, though.  The spice level was pronounced, but I want a sandwich like this to really put some sweat on my brow, and this one didn’t quite take me there.

Solid BBQ at Golden Horseshoe Barbecue

Golden Horseshoe Barbecue
Location
: 657 Dupont Street, Toronto
Website: https://goldenhorseshoebbq.com/

Golden Horseshoe BBQ started life as a pop-up, and opened their permanent location a couple of months ago to immediate hype.

I sort of figured things would have died down by now, but when I showed up just before the place opened at 11:30 on a Saturday, there was already a line waiting to get in.  It took about half an hour before I was sitting in front of my food, and the line was even longer by the time I left.  So yeah: popular place.  Be prepared to wait a bit.

Golden Horseshoe Barbecue

Like most barbecue joints in the GTA over the last few years, they specialize in Texas-style BBQ, and more specifically: brisket.

In fact, when I sidled over to the guy carving the meats so I could order, his first question was “how much brisket do you want?”  They just assume you’re ordering brisket, because of course you are.  You can try some of the other meats if you want, but the brisket is clearly the specialty.

Golden Horseshoe Barbecue

I got brisket and a sausage link, along with a side of charro beans and coleslaw.

The brisket is nicely seasoned and unctuously tender — I quite enjoyed it.  But like pretty much every Toronto-area BBQ joint, the smoky flavour is just barely there (you really have to close your eyes and use your imagination to detect it).

Golden Horseshoe Barbecue

I don’t get it.  What’s everyone in this city doing wrong?  Is it the local wood?  Not enough time on the smoker?  The place smelled pleasantly smoky and the brisket had a visible smoke ring, so I’m a bit flummoxed.

Either way, it was very tender and very tasty, but smoky flavour is a big part of the appeal of this type of BBQ, so it’s a shame.

Golden Horseshoe Barbecue

The sausage, oddly enough, was the highlight.  It was packed with flavour, pleasantly greasy, and had some nice pops of flavour and creaminess from the cheese interspersed throughout.  Again, not particularly smoky, but hugely delicious.

As for the sides, the vinegary coleslaw was crunchy and zippy, and does a great job of cutting through the richness of the meats.  And the charro beans (which are basically like a more savoury, less sweet version of baked beans) featured creamy beans and a nice depth of flavour.

Quality Pastrami at Linny’s Luncheonette

Linny's Luncheonette
Location
: 174 Ossington Avenue, Toronto
Website: https://linnysluncheonette.com/

Whenever there’s a new deli specializing in pastrami or Montreal smoked meat, I sit up and take notice.  We have a handful of quality restaurants like this in the GTA, but not nearly enough.  There should be one on every block, and there’s what?  Like maybe five or six?

Linny's Luncheonette

The menu here is extremely simple.  They serve pastrami, a couple of other sandwiches, and a few sides.  It’s also take-out only, so if you don’t get one of the two small picnic tables out front, too bad.  Take your food and walk.

Linny's Luncheonette

The pastrami is quite tasty.  The spicing on the meat is weirdly restrained, though, which dials down the flavour and holds the sandwich back from greatness.  But otherwise, everything here is exactly where it should be, with thick, hand-cut slices of ultra-tender beef on perfectly-fresh rye bread with just the right amount of mustard (I find a lot of places tend to over-mustard their sandwiches, overwhelming the beef, but here it’s just right).

Linny's Luncheonette

I will say that although the borderline bland spicing is a bummer, the meat has a distinctly smoky flavour that goes a long way towards mitigating this.  And it’s still a great sandwich — it’s just that everything else about it is so stellar that its lack of seasoning stands out more than it would otherwise.

I also got a side order of the coleslaw, which is a great zippy counterpoint to the very heavy sandwich (albeit a little too heavy on the onions for my personal preferences).