Intense Jiro-Style Ramen at Ramen Tabetai

Ramen Tabetai
Location
: 154 Cumberland Street, Toronto
Website: https://ramen-tabetai.ca/

Ramen Tabetai is the brainchild of chef Masaki Saito, best known for Sushi Masaki Saito, which is noteworthy for having been awarded two Michelin stars (and it’s the only two star restaurant in Toronto, which makes it Michelin’s highest rated restaurant in the city).

I mean, you had me at ramen, but ramen from a Michelin-starred chef??  Yes please.

Ramen Tabetai

Tabetai serves a very specific type of ramen known as Jiro-style ramen, which they describe as “garlic heavy, pork fat loaded – no apologies.”  It features a very flavourful pork broth topped with thick ramen noodles, a fat slice of chashu (which was oddly lean, given this place’s whole M.O., but still tasty), chunks of unctuous back fat, a whole bunch of raw garlic, and a crunchy veggie mix (cabbage and bean sprouts, I believe).

I’ll admit that while I enjoy this style of ramen, it isn’t my favourite.  I think the best bowls of ramen have an amazing complexity, and Jiro-style ramen is kinda just a porky, fatty, garlicky, salty assault.

Ramen Tabetai

Don’t get me wrong — I love being assaulted by porkiness, fattiness, garlickiness, and saltiness.  Those are all great things!  But it’s a lot of in-your-face big flavours, not to mention the intense richness.  I probably don’t need to have it more than once every several months, if that.

(I also think that this style of ramen is probably an odd fit for a Michelin-starred chef, as it’s more about blowing out your tastebuds than the type of gastronomical finesse you typically associate with Michelin-caliber chefs.)

To be fair, the restaurant does allow you to adjust your level of back fat, garlic, and salt — I went with the default 100%, though the waitress did suggest that 50% might be advisable for first-timers.  So that might feel like less of an assault.  But hey, go big or go home, right?

Tasty Japanese Food at Tanuki

Tanuki
Location
: 3160 Steeles Avenue East, Markham
Website: http://www.tanukirestaurant.com/

Tanuki is actually in the same location as the great Shiso Tree Cafe, which, sadly, shut down near the beginning of the pandemic.  I kinda want to hate this place on principal, like, how dare you try to replace the Shiso Tree Cafe??  But you know what?  Just based on this one visit, I think Tanuki might be just as good.

Tanuki

I came during their brunch service and tried the seared duck breast (“served medium rare, chimichurri, garlic chips”), along with the omurice (“soft omelette, chicken fried rice, shiitake, edamame, gravy”).

Tanuki

Both were very, very tasty.  The duck breast was perfectly cooked; it was tender while still having a nice meaty bite, and while the skin wasn’t crispy, once I started eating, I didn’t miss it.  The garlic chips give it that crispiness while also adding pops of flavour.  It’s a great dish.

Tanuki

The omurice was just as good.  Slicing the omlette open to reveal its eggy interior is thoroughly satisfying, and the creamy eggs complement the tasty fried rice quite nicely.  That fried rice would have actually been perfectly fine on its own, with the mushroom/chicken combo being thoroughly delicious, nice pops of freshness from the edamame, the occasional bite of crispy rice, and some nice smokiness from the wok.

Tanuki

But once you add the perfectly cooked omelette, things really take off.  The omelette is silky and creamy, with its richness only amped up by the gravy that comes on the side.  Add a few spoonfuls of the zippy habanero sauce they have on the table, and you’re really in business.

Great Ramen at Kaminari Ramen Bar

Kaminari Ramen Bar
Location
: 1330 Queen Street West, Toronto
Website: https://www.bykaminari.com/

Kaminari Ramen Bar actually has a few types of ramen on the menu: clear Tokyo-style, creamy, “duck umami,” vegan, and a soupless yuzu ramen.  The waiter said they don’t really have a specialty, so I went with the clear Tokyo-style.

Kaminari Ramen Bar

The ramen, as per the menu: “Clear chicken broth, pork cha-shu, chicken cha-shu, wonton, Tokyo Negi, bamboo shoot, and nori seaweed.”  You can get it either shio (salt) or shoyu (soy sauce); I went with the latter.

Kaminari Ramen Bar

It’s a very good bowl of ramen.  This style of ramen isn’t quite as common in the GTA as the more omnipresent creamy tonkotsu or tori paitan, but done well, it’s just as delicious.

The soup has a very rich and savoury soy-sauce-infused flavour.  It’s the type of broth that never feels one-note or overly salty, no matter how much of it you have.

Kaminari Ramen Bar

And everything else here was quite tasty, from the chewy, thin noodles to the tender chicken and pork.  It’s a top-notch bowl of ramen.

Tasty Hand Rolls at Hello Nori

Hello Nori
Location
: 648 King Street West, Toronto
Website: https://www.hellonori.com/

Hello Nori specializes in hand rolls — basically loosely constructed , uncut maki rolls –that they make in front of you and serve immediately.  You wouldn’t think that would make that much of a difference, but the fact that the nori is still crispy when they give it to you is actually quite delightful.

Hello Nori

It kind of reminds me of the onigiri they serve at variety stores in Japan, where the nori is wrapped on both sides to prevent contact with the rice until you eat it.  Crispy nori and fluffy sushi rice turns out to be a great combo.

Hello Nori

You can either order the rolls on their own (most of them are between six and nine dollars) or as a combo.  I went with the four roll combo, which costs $23 and comes with negitoro (minced tuna and green onion), ora king salmon, snow crab, and spicy shrimp.

Hello Nori

The negitoro was a bit oniony for me (raw onions are for jerks), but otherwise these were all thoroughly enjoyable.  The rice was underseasoned, but then they do have soy sauce right in front of you at the bar; I think the expectation is that you’ll be dipping the rolls.

Hello Nori

The salmon — which features big chunks of tasty fish — was probably my favourite of the bunch, but I liked them all.

Hello Nori

I was worried four rolls might not be enough, but it was actually a pretty decent portion, at least for lunch.

Stellar Ramen at Ramen x Remix

Ramen x Remix
Location
: 424 Queen Street West, Toronto
Website: https://ramenxremix.com/

I feel like Ramen x Remix really deserves to be more popular.  I’m going to assume (and hope) that they do better in the evenings, because I showed up for lunch on a Saturday, and the place was a complete ghost town.  Based on the quality of ramen I was served, this is a crime.  The place should be packed with a line out the door.

Ramen x Remix

I  ordered the Signature Yuzu Scallop Shio Consommé (“signature slow cooked clear chicken broth, pork and chicken chashu, clam meat, yuzu, lemon, sashimi grade torched scallop, pork shrimp wonton, menma, onions”) and it was absolutely fantastic.

It reminded me a lot of the ramen from Afuri.  I liked that quite a lot, but I think this was even better.

Ramen x Remix

The soup itself had such a clean chicken/seafoody flavour, with a subtle bright sweetness from the yuzu.  A lot of ramen can be a real face-punch of flavour — and I love that, don’t get me wrong — but I really enjoyed how subtle this was.  But it’s still complex enough that I wasn’t even close to sick of it by the time I got to the bottom of the bowl.

Ramen x Remix

And everything else was great, from the super-tender pork and chicken to the sweet, fresh scallop and the noodles, which were nice and chewy.  It’s a very tasty bowl of ramen.