Terroni – Michael Eats

Location: 128A Sterling Road, Toronto
Website: https://www.terroni.com/locations/spaccio-west

Taking over the spot where the Drake Commissary used to be, Spaccio West is the latest addition to Terroni’s increasingly expanding Italian food empire.

It’s an enormous space, and features a full restaurant, an Italian grocery, and an assortment of pastries, pizza slices, and sandwiches you can take out.

I’ll have to return at some point to check out the restaurant, but on this trip, I tried the porchetta sandwich.

Featuring a generous amount of thinly sliced porchetta topped with some braised greens and some kind of creamy sauce, it’s a solid sandwich. It doesn’t have any of the crispy bits you might hope for from a porchetta sandwich, but the meat is tender and tasty enough that this never feels like a big deal.

It’s served on a flatbread that basically tastes like an undressed pizza. This mostly works quite well, though the bread is a bit on the bland side.

Location: 1095 Yonge Street, Toronto
Website: http://www.terroni.com/

I didn’t think it was possible to be offended by a bread plate, but Terroni proved me wrong.

The bread plate at Terroni costs six dollars. And fine — I understand that restaurant margins are dangerously thin, and that charging for bread is increasingly becoming a thing.

The issue is that the plate comes with three tiny, dried-out slices of over-toasted white bread with a few drops of olive oil sprinkled on, four pieces of taralli (which is essentially an Italian breadstick), a small handful of olives, and… that’s it. No butter, no olive oil, just mediocre bread and a few olives. For six bucks. Get the hell out of here with that.

Thankfully, the rest of the meal was much better.

I had the Garganelli Geppetto, which is a pasta dish that comes with “dandelions, homemade spicy italian sausage, fontina, parmigiano, extra-virgin olive oil.”

A dish like this is a bit of a tightrope walk — the “sauce” is essentially oil, so it’s going to be somewhat greasy by default. But this one goes a bit too far, and feels oilier than it should be.

Still, it’s a tasty dish — the sausage is above average and has a mild spicy bite; the cheese adds a good amount of saltiness and a mild funk, not to mention some gooey meltiness; and the pasta itself is perfectly cooked and satisfying. It’s good stuff.

I can’t remember the name of the dessert and I can’t find it on the menu online, but it was essentially a croissant filled with Nutella, hazelnut gelato, and whipped cream. It was easily the highlight of the meal. It was shockingly delicious; the Nutella and the creamy gelato (which adds even more hazelnut flavour) go amazingly well together, and the tasty croissant is a perfect vehicle.

Ice cream cones are officially dead to me — I want all my ice cream in a croissant from now on.

Tag: Terroni

Tasty Italian Food at Spaccio West

Quality Pasta (and Even Better Dessert) at Terroni