Zelden’s Deli & Desserts

Zelden's
Location: 1446 Yonge Street, Toronto
Websitehttp://zeldensdelianddesserts.com/

I’d have a pretty hard time narrowing down a top five list of my favourite dishes, but certainly, deli sandwiches — pastrami, smoked meat, etc. — would be on there.  There are few things in life more satisfying than a really good deli sandwich.

Zelden’s is the new kid in town in the Toronto deli scene (such as it is), so obviously I had to give them a shot.

Zelden's

Their specialty is pastrami, and the sandwich comes piled high with meat.  The mustard’s on the side, which is correct.  It’s always better when you get to apply it yourself, because a lot of places tend to slather it on in gobs, which completely overpowers the meat.

It’s a very good sandwich, but sadly, not great.  The meat has a good proportion of fat, and the spicing is perfect — it has a satisfying peppery kick that doesn’t overwhelm.  But the meat probably needed to cook for another hour or so.  Some slices were okay; others were rubbery.  You know that thing where you can’t quite bite through the meat in a sandwich, and it pulls out from the bread?  Yeah.

Zelden's

I also wish the meat were sliced by hand instead of by machine, because I find that the thicker, slightly irregular slices of hand-cut pastrami tend to be more satisfying.  But then again, in this case the meat was so tough that it really needed to be sliced as thinly as possible.  It probably should have been thinner.

It’s a shame, because it otherwise seemed like top-notch pastrami, so I’ll definitely have to give Zelden’s another shot at some point.

The fries were quite good, at least.

Pastry Perfection at MoRoCo Chocolat

MoRoCo Chocolat
Location: 215 Madison Avenue, Toronto
Websitehttps://shop.morocochocolat.com/

People: this is not a drill.  The chocolate hazelnut croissant at MoRoCo Chocolat is mind-blowing.  It’s the best pastry I’ve had in a long, long time, and yes — I’m including my recent ten-day trip to Paris.  It’s an all-timer.

MoRoCo Chocolat

Everything about it is amazing: you’ve got the croissant itself, which is buttery and flaky and delicious.  There’s the perfectly crispy sweet hazelnut topping, which is basically like the topping of an almond croissant, only with hazelnuts, and which goes perfectly with the rich, chocolately filling.

And the icing on the metaphorical cake?  The absolutely astonishing custard, which might have been the best custard I’ve ever had.

MoRoCo Chocolat

And I mean, who expects custard in a croissant like this?  It’s weird, right?  But good weird.  The best weird.  It’s what pushed this over the top and made it one of the best damn things I’ve eaten in such a long time.  It was creamy and rich, with a flavour that I can only describe as the platonic ideal of custards.  It’s the kind of custard that makes all other custards taste like garbage, because it’s so damn perfect.

It took something that was already delicious and made it crazy delicious.

MoRoCo Chocolat

I’m not sure why you’re even still reading this when you should clearly be driving/walking/sprinting to MoRoCo to buy one.  Just be warned: after taking a couple of bites and realizing that this was the best thing ever, I promptly went back into the store so I could buy another one or two (or three).  But that was it.  Apparently they only make one or two a day.  So get there early.  It’s worth it.

Consistent Mediocrity at Panera Bread

Panera Bread
Location: 197 North Queen Street, Etobicoke
Websitehttps://www.panerabread.com

I continue to be baffled by the success of Panera Bread.  It’s really expensive, consistently mediocre, and always busy.  I don’t get it.

The bread’s not bad, I’ll give it that.  I’ve had a few sandwiches here, and the bread is always the highlight.

Panera Bread

I got the “Pick 2,” which means you can pick two smaller things and pay a lot for it.  I got a small sandwich and a little bowl of chili, and it came up to a bit over 14 bucks, and just get the hell out of here with that.  This should cost about half of that for the quality of food they’re serving.

Specifically, I got the Fontiga  Chicken Panini, and the Turkey Chili.

Panera Bread

They were both fine.  The sandwich had a mild smoky flavour — I guess either the cheese or the chicken was smoked — but was otherwise the sandwich equivalent of white noise.  It’s neither good nor bad; it’s just kind of there.

The chili was fine, but it was about on the level as a can of soup from the supermarket.  A nicer can — maybe one that costs a buck fifty instead of a buck — but a can nonetheless.

And of course, as usual, the place was packed.  Why?  I guess it’s better than the literal garbage that they call sandwiches at Tim Hortons, but still: why is this place so popular?

Ladurée

Ladurée in YorkdaleThe macarons from Ladurée were delicious.  You probably shouldn’t eat them.

I got four of them, and they cost about 15 bucks with tax ($14.92, actually), and seriously: get the hell out of here with those prices.  I don’t care if you’re using the highest of high-end ingredients, there’s no way to justify charging $3.73 each for these tiny little things.

Ladurée in Yorkdale

They are quite good, though.  I tried hazelnut, pistachio, salted caramel and coconut lime.

Ladurée in Yorkdale

They were amazing; maybe the best macarons I’ve ever had.  The texture was the perfect contrast of crispy, airy, and creamy, and the flavours were uniformly great.  Even the coconut lime, which I was kind of skeptical about, was top notch.  It had a really satisfying coconut flavour, with a mild zinginess from the lime that never overwhelms.

But those prices?  Nope.

Scaddabush

Location: 1900 The Queensway, Etobicoke
Websitehttp://www.scaddabush.com/

I’ve been to Scaddabush a few times now, and it continually surprises me.  Not that it’s anything particularly special, but they serve consistently good food; for a casual chain restaurant in Canada, that’s a minor miracle.

Granted, it’s easy to look good when your competition is dreck like Boston Pizza and East Side Mario’s, but we are where we are.  The bar for a casual chain restaurant is low.

Scaddabush on the Queensway

And so Scaddabush, which is very keen to boast that they make their pasta and mozzarella in-house, is comparatively pretty amazing.

The fresh mozzarella is pleasantly toothsome, and with a bit of the sun-dried tomato spread on the side, quite tasty.

Scaddabush on the Queensway

The roasted fennel and sausage fettuccine was one of the better pasta dishes I’ve had in a while, with a really nice interplay between the hearty sausage, the spicy pop of the sliced hot peppers, and the crispiness of the seasoned breadcrumbs.

Alas, the meal ended on a sour note — the zeppoli tasted stale, with a sodden exterior and an unpleasantly sponge-like interior.  The chocolate hazelnut sauce was fine, but was mostly just bland sweetness; there wasn’t much of a chocolate or hazelnut flavour.

Scaddabush on the Queensway