Location: 657 Dupont Street, Toronto
Website: https://goldenhorseshoebbq.com/
Golden Horseshoe BBQ started life as a pop-up, and opened their permanent location a couple of months ago to immediate hype.
I sort of figured things would have died down by now, but when I showed up just before the place opened at 11:30 on a Saturday, there was already a line waiting to get in. It took about half an hour before I was sitting in front of my food, and the line was even longer by the time I left. So yeah: popular place. Be prepared to wait a bit.
Like most barbecue joints in the GTA over the last few years, they specialize in Texas-style BBQ, and more specifically: brisket.
In fact, when I sidled over to the guy carving the meats so I could order, his first question was “how much brisket do you want?” They just assume you’re ordering brisket, because of course you are. You can try some of the other meats if you want, but the brisket is clearly the specialty.
I got brisket and a sausage link, along with a side of charro beans and coleslaw.
The brisket is nicely seasoned and unctuously tender — I quite enjoyed it. But like pretty much every Toronto-area BBQ joint, the smoky flavour is just barely there (you really have to close your eyes and use your imagination to detect it).
I don’t get it. What’s everyone in this city doing wrong? Is it the local wood? Not enough time on the smoker? The place smelled pleasantly smoky and the brisket had a visible smoke ring, so I’m a bit flummoxed.
Either way, it was very tender and very tasty, but smoky flavour is a big part of the appeal of this type of BBQ, so it’s a shame.
The sausage, oddly enough, was the highlight. It was packed with flavour, pleasantly greasy, and had some nice pops of flavour and creaminess from the cheese interspersed throughout. Again, not particularly smoky, but hugely delicious.
As for the sides, the vinegary coleslaw was crunchy and zippy, and does a great job of cutting through the richness of the meats. And the charro beans (which are basically like a more savoury, less sweet version of baked beans) featured creamy beans and a nice depth of flavour.
Michael Eats 